It's all about the gilet collar

Published on 19 May 2026 at 16:54

The Nehru jacket has a very distinctive collar, small, upright and slightly cut back. Drawing inspiration from classic military uniforms can we "mix it up a bit" and see where we go to elevate the styling.

The collar in the photo is what I would call a standard Nehru jacket collar. Called Nehru after a previous Indian Prime Minister who started using this style. The collar, also called a mandarin collar in the fashion world, is small, upright and slightly cut back. It’s really what defines this sleeveless jacket. 

Old military uniforms sometimes had stand-up or standing collars which were used for neck protection from possible knife slashing and later, ceremonially, enforced good parade posture. 

Drawing inspiration from the classic military uniforms I designed a cut back collar, taller than the Nehru collar and more of an upright style creating a sharper, more striking and distinguished look.